Wednesday, March 18, 2009

The Way It Is

Last weekend, after about four and a half months of debating, I broke down and bought a spear to go spear-fishing. I was hooked ever since my host father used to go out daily and bring back lunch or dinner. But I never was able to go with him, and it nagged at my brain. Spear-fishing, I thought – it has to be as awesome as I imagine it. I put it off, and put it off, but still I wanted to try it. On Monday, once my after-school class was finished, I headed out. Rash guard, snorkel, fins, spear, and the instincts of my ancestors all set to bear down on some unsuspecting fish. I spent two and a half hours in the reef behind my house. I caught one (1) fish. I was under-whelmed, to say the least, about the size of my catch. But, as they say, it’s about the pursuit of happiness, not attaining it. And honestly, I was the happiest I’ve been in Samoa when I was out there. This week I have plans to head out again for some night fishing (“lama” in Samoan) with one of my fellow teachers. I am excited about the potential of this trip, and respectfully fearful of heading out into the ocean at night. But not to worry – I’ve got my Samoan guide, Unasa; the fact that many, many Samoan men do this same thing every day of every week; and oh yea, I know how to swim pretty well too! [So really don’t worry Mom, I’ll be OK.] I’ll give you an update on how it goes next time I blog.


As you’ll soon see, I apparently have much more to fear from the land than from the sea. From about mid-February to the beginning of March I had a nasty infection in my right pointer finger. How did this start you ask? I don’t know. How do you not know? I don’t know. All I know is that it got infected a little, a lot, and then basically exploded. As my fellow Savai’ian PCV, Nick, says, “Samoa is like one giant Petri dish. It’s hot, it’s wet, and stuff loves to grow.” Lucky for me, the hospital on my island is literally a four minute walk from my house. The nurses and I are now on a first-name basis. Interesting, hospital care in Samoa is incredibly cheap compared to the U.S. I saw the doctor twice, got three antibiotics, and changed the bandage on at least five separate occasions. It cost me $25 tala (about $9 dollars). Sweet. Not sweet was the minor surgery (I’m exaggerating, but only slightly) they performed on my finger after a week of antibiotics and no improvement. I got a needle (full of local anesthetic) stuck into my already painful, swollen, pus-filled finger six times. This is a pain I had not known before, and hope to never know again. Without getting too graphic, to allow the pus to drain better the part where the fingerprint is was taken off with a scalpel. It felt like giving blood while sticking my hand into a fan blade. It sucked. But before anyone gets too worried, as of today my finger is healed and back to normal! Chalk down another point for modern medicine.


Obviously, while my finger was on the mend I rested and took things easy. My neighbor (an Indian missionary) has a TV, and Samoa has 3 TV channels. So I’ve been watching American Idol on a fairly regular basis, and the Oscars (and Obama’s inauguration back in January!). But other than that the programming is pretty weak. Similarly, my parents sent me a radio and I tried in vain to get it to work. I couldn’t find a spot in the house with anything resembling decent reception. That is until I extended the antenna with a finely-crafted pair of aluminum foil bunny ears. Now music fills the house at all hours of the day and definitely helps pass the (sometimes) boring hours in Samoa.


Teaching is going well, with some troubles along the way (it is Peace Corps right?). I’m teaching Years 12 and 13 and this past week I had to ban some students from class because they haven’t paid their $20 tala computer class fee. It’s Week 8 of school. Being somewhat naïve I assumed that everything was good, all bills had been paid, and that the school year was well under way. Not the case, as my principal informed me last Monday. So my Year 12 class went from thirteen students to seven. Yesterday it went from seven to six after one student earned a two week suspension for fighting. Not cool. Year 13 was a bit better, only one student hasn’t paid. But still, it was really hard to accept the fact that their education in computers was put on pause, or in some cases, all together stopped, and I had to be the one to do it. “That’s the way it is,” in the words of my principal. And I guess it is.




My awesome radio. Check out that foil antenna!


My finger - good as new.

Back at home after meeting the scalpel. Not happy.



Taken on Monday, right before I went out for the first time. And yeah, that spear is longer than I am tall. (And why am I not wearing a shirt in the last two pictures you ask? Because Samoa is the hottest place ever. And when you do your laundry in a bucket, it really matters how many shirts you have to wash!)


Tuesday, February 17, 2009

This Last Month

The last month has brought some considerable changes to my life, mainly the fact that I actually started doing what I was brought to Samoa to do. So only four months after I arrived I became a computer studies teacher for Year 12 and 13 high school students on January 26. It’s a strange feeling to be the one dishing out facts and definitions in school rather than receiving them.

I also got robbed for the first time in my life. This is a first for the school my vice principal tells me – and he’s lived here for 27 years so he would know. The thief made off with some of PCV Matt’s stuff, who unluckily had stayed the night. After a month of not hearing back from the police, I figured it was a lost cause. Then this past week they showed up at my house, with all of the stuff (Ipod, digital camera, etc) and it all still worked. Amazing. I’m not sure that could happen in the U.S.

I ate shark and raw sea urchins and sea cucumbers. I saw the most beautiful waterfall of my life. I made friends with the two dogs who live on the school compound with me and they stop by the house every night for something to eat. But of course it is not all sandy beaches and swaying coconut trees. Some not-so-pleasant moments have tested me. But so far thinking of them as just that, only moments, has preserved my sanity.

When I get the chance I’ve been swimming in the ocean, or reading, or just relaxing, but school has started to keep me busy. Planning the next day’s lessons or writing a quiz or staying after school to keep the lab open so kids who haven’t caught their bus yet can come and use the computers eats up the hours of the day without me even knowing it. It boggles my mind that in a few short months I will have graduated one year ago. Vave taimi. Time flies.

A stormy picture of the island of Upolu, sandwiched between the ocean and the sky.

Tua, he has a fish pen in the ocean behind my house. Just dropping by to give me a fish and show me the shark he caught. I eat lunch with him and his family every Sunday. (Notice his canoe on the left side of his body in the water behind him.)


The waterfall – with PCVs Dan and Paul on the middle right, about to jump.